Full Time Foodie

I'f I'm not eating food. I'm thinking about it. All. The. Time.

Tag: france

Allondrelle la Malmaison (population: more cows than people)

I thought I’d share some of the photos I took of this tiny little french village in the northern countryside.  We were a five minute walk from Belgium and a half hour drive to Luxembourg.  Surprisingly central for what upon first glance seems to be the middle of nowhere.

We took a leisurely walk through the village one of the days and it took approximately 20 minutes to walk from one end to the other.  It was fantastically charming, as one usually expects the french countryside to be.  It’s as unsuburban as you can get.  Each house shares at least one side with another.  And each house is distinguished from the other by a different color, door, window, or shutter.  It’s marvelously diverse and quite an aesthetically pleasing place to live.  I feel fantastically lucky to have had the opportunity to stay here for a couple of weeks with the family of my mom’s old university friend.

And of course people here have chickens casually living in their yards.

Theo the cat would like to know what he can do for you.

And now this, this is beauty.

It’s like I have a blog or something…

Holy cannoli it’s been a while, hasn’t it?  It seems I wasn’t able to find time between all the eating, drinking, and exploring of the nearby countries of Luxembourg and Belgium while we were staying with some family friends in Northern France.  And time to write was ever more scarce during the insufficient five nights we spent in London.  There were quite simply too many sights to see, too many museums to visit, too much money to spend, too much tea to drink, and too many things to buy in Camden Town.  And only now, after spending two weeks on a farm in Culcheth, an hour or so away from Manchester, it has occurred to me that it would probably be a good idea to actually pretend that I have a blog.

Good work, Katya, good work.  That sort of dedication is going to get you really far.

Enough self-criticism.  There are more important things to discuss.  Such as my experience in and impressions of the french countryside.  Let me sum it up as briefly as I can.  The french countryside is stunning; I have never felt so profoundly about a landscape. I have also never felt so well nourished.  I forgot what hunger was during the 11 days we stayed with my mom’s old university friend from Russia. Our day would begin with a leisurely breakfast that would begin with fresh coffee brewed italian style and freshly squeezed orange juice, which would then be followed by a selection of pastries, leftover desserts from the day before, a selection of charcuterie, and chocolates.  This was followed by lunch just mere hours later, at just about the same time I had half digested my breakfast.  This is when it got typically french.  Our gracious hosts would insist we have wine upon sitting down for lunch.  Often this escalated to a couple of glasses of wine.  And maybe a beer.  Well ya know… when in France…

Our afternoon would then consist of some sort of car driving, sight seeing, museum attending, and rain.  It seemed that we had unluckily arrived at the rainiest period of the year – there was always rain.  There was also always wine.  At one point, I recall there being three bottles of red wine open at one time.  It was repeatedly suggested that we help consume them to the best of our abilities.  We tried our best to do so.  Despite the copious amounts of wine (and also belgian beer) we drank, we ate even more.  Amongst the many delicious things we ate for dinner, I most vividly recall frog legs, snails, quiche lorraine, pot au feu, salad nicoise, coucous with a fantastic selection of roasted meats, beef bourguignon, and rabbit.  And dinner was always followed by a marvelous selection of cheese.  Cheese, marvelous cheese.  How I love you so.

And each day featured a different dessert.  Naturally.

Before those 11 days in France, I don’t think I had ever enjoyed such a large concentration of extravagant eating and drinking in such a short period of time.  And I didn’t even gain that much weight, my jeans just got smaller.

With suitcases full of slightly tighter fitting clothing, we departed for London.  After five nights, I was left with the impression that if we were to have stayed any longer I would have had to sell myself into prostitution to afford it.  In justification of the obscene amounts of money that were spent, I feel it is fair to say we had a smashing time in London (despite the persistence of the rain).  Also, our attempts to eat/drink all things typically British included steak and ale pie, beef suet pie, fish and chips, scones, a traditional English breakfast, and beer.  And just when I thought I had spent all the money I could possibly spend, we went to Camden Town on our last full day in London which luckily turned out to be sunny and warm.  And it’s possible I spent more in the market in Camden than I had in the past four days.  I have no shame.  I also have no money.

Thankfully, just before my remaining savings dipped into the negatives, it was our time to depart from London and to head up north near Manchester to start our farm experience through an organization called WWOOF (world wide opportunities on organic farms).  The way it works is you contact farms you would like to volunteer on, they respond with a yes or no, you arrive at the farm, you’re given a place to live and food to eat and in exchange you work an average 6 hours each day and you get two days off every week.  We are currently residing in a comfy two bedroom caravan in a field enclosed by an electric fence and with a lovely view of the pigs.  The toilet in the caravan is good for one thing, so the other thing requires ducking underneath the electric fence and running to the toilet in the house.  I don’t think further elaboration is required.  Conveniently, the shower in the caravan doesn’t work either, so showers must be carefully timed and taken also at the house.  And the stove is out of gas.  And the main heater doesn’t work, but we still have heat in the form of two space heaters.  All minor inconveniences really.  In fact, I think it gives the place a bit of character.

A typical day begins at 9:30.  We feed the pigs.  Water the plants in the polytunnel.  Make sure the cows have enough water to drink.  Let the chickens out of their coop.  Let the goose out of his coop.  Clean out the poopy straw from both coops and replace them with new straw.  Gather any eggs the chickens may have laid.  Run around with the lambs just for fun.  Mill pig food.  Accompany any hay or straw deliveries.  Cook lunch.  Eat lunch (super important).  Do other farm related things.  Feed the pigs again.  Water the plants in the polytunnel again.  Check on the cow’s water again. Maybe take a shower.  Cook dinner.  Eat dinner (extra super important).  And then we have the evening to ourselves.

Life is simple.  I take every opportunity I can to get dirty.  I’ve had chicken poop splatter in my eye.  I have dirt under my fingernails and I don’t care.  There seems to be an unspoken agreement to not give a damn about appearances and I am relishing not wearing makeup.  I intentionally walk through deep muddy puddles.  I would chill with the pigs for hours if I didn’t have other things to do.  I wish I could pet the chickens.  I also wish the sheep and lambs would accept me as their own.  I’ve been nibbled on by horses, dogs, the goose, pigs, and sheep.   I’ve been threatened and hissed at by the goose on multiple occasions.  I’m incredibly pleased to have the opportunity to cook legitimate meals twice a day for everybody.  And I’ve eaten the most delicious meat of my life here, from the pigs and cows raised on this farm.  Notably, the pork sausages have forced me to reassess what a sausage should taste like.

There’s loads more I could ramble on about, like a certain double decker bus and its owner who reside here on this farm.  Or about a certain baby lamb.  Or about how I feel fully equipped to travel back in time to become a 1960s housewife.  However I will leave this precious writing material for a later time.  Like for when I haven’t already written eight paragraphs and included an overwhelming amount of pictures summarizing the past month of my life. Till next time!

Cheers, friends.

African Fish

Of all the favorite foods I thought I’d be favoring in France, the food I least expected to leave the strongest impression was a fish. That was, until I ate this fish.

The impression it proceeded to leave upon me was unparalleled to that of any fish I have ever eaten before.  And this was not only because it was ridiculously delicious, but also because this special meal was served by an accommodating and friendly couple, shared in magnificent company, and we felt as if we were dining upon hidden treasure.

Based on the lack of customers on a Saturday night, I couldn’t help but be surprised this place was still in business.  But then again, based on the deliciousness of the food and the friendliness of the proprietors, I couldn’t help but be surprised that there wasn’t a line of people out the door.  So as a general consensus, I was surprised concerning all aspects of this business which epitomized the concept of a hidden gem.

As another general consensus, this was seriously one of the best meals of my life thus far.  And therefore, it deserves a thorough recounting.  An explanation of how we ended up at this inconspicuous african restaurant is in order.  Two weeks into our stay in Nice, we met a girl from sweden at school and she invited us to eat delicious fish.  Of course, we agreed to go.  She had been first introduced to the restaurant by an african guy who had attended the school earlier, and now the recommendation was being taken up by six new people (me and my travel companion, and four other students from the school).  That Friday night, now what seems so long ago, was a revolutionary fish and dining experience and I admonished myself for not bringing my camera.  I promised myself I would return and take an obscene amount of pictures.

This past Saturday, I did just that.  Weeks after that first dinner we returned as a slightly different group of six, composed of some of the funniest, friendliest, and kindest people who I’m so happy to call my friends.  The proprietress recognized us and greeted us with friendly acknowledgment.  Of course, we’d all be having the fish.  In addition we ordered a bottle of each red and white wine.  This was going to be a good dinner.

We were served a drink on the house, of which I can’t remember the name now, but that was like a sweet, pink, ginger juice.  In fact, it was sweet, pink, ginger juice.  And it was delicious.

What followed was an unnecessary amount of picture taking, laughter, knife fighting, fork intervention, more laughter, some more picture taking, peanut snacking, and before we knew it the time to eat fish had arrived.

We descended upon each of our fish, frantically picking apart the tender white flesh from bone, savoring each bite of crispy skin, devouring everything from head to tail.  Literally.  Turns out fish tails are like a crispy fish chip.  And fish eyes taste… well, fishy.  The mountain of salsa served atop the fish was fantastically fresh and ever so perfectly spiced.  And the three accompaniments (rice, some unidentified but delicious grain-like stuff, and plantains) formed a delicious sort of love square between themselves and the fish.  Oh and if you were wondering what kind of fish it was, all I can tell you is that it was fish of the delicious sort.  I was too busy enjoying it to bother to ask.

Likewise, I’ve been too busy enjoying the company of the friends we’ve made here to think about the fact that we depart Nice this Saturday.  I’m anticipating that we’ll be busy seeing the sights we haven’t yet seen, eating the things we haven’t yet eaten, destroying what’s left of our livers, and seeing the most of the people we’ve come to love in the next few days leading up to our fated day of departure.  So, I’d like to bid you a bittersweet farewell, Nice.  May we meet again one day (not too far in the future).  And thanks for the fish.

Things I should have blogged about in the past few weeks but didn’t so I’m doing it now. Voilà.

What’s blogging consistently anyways?  Blogging is for people who actually have time…

Me, I’m busy living the Nice way, lazily, slowly, and carelessly.  Rough life, I know.  A “nice” way of living if I do say so myself.  Here, you never know what the night life entails until it begins.  Plans are more loosely made than your favorite pair of oversized sweatpants.  And a stroll through the old town usually ends up as rendez-vous with someone you know.  It’s fabulously carefree and  it’s been consistently astounding how things just seem to work out in the end.

Equally as astounding, is the sun.  There is always sun.  Well, except at night time obviously, but it’s an incredibly rare moment when the sun isn’t out during the day.  I haven’t seen a drop of rain in the past three and a half weeks that I’ve been here.  The temperature hasn’t dropped below 55, and is usually at a lovely 60 degrees.  For a weather-worn new englander, it’s like living in an alternate universe where beautiful, consistent weather actually exists.

There is no such thing as the best view in Nice because all the views are beautiful.

Everything is delicious. Pain bagnat. Socca. Pissaladière. Baguette. Croissants. Pain au Chocolate. Pain aux raisins. Chocolate chaud. Beignets. Crepes. Butter. Macarons. Roasted Chicken. Yogurt. Wine. Pizza. Fresh Pasta.  Gnocchi. Chocolate. Avocados.

I’ve meet the loveliest, kindest, friendliest people here than I ever have in my entire life. A personal theory of mine is that Sweden and Norwegia breed people like this (there is a large majority of Swedes and Norwegians at the international school I go to for classes).  Besides Northern Europeans, I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Brazilian, Japanese, Chinese, Russian, Canadian, and American students.

Rue de france

Last weekend, I attended a crepe party.

My french has improved.  This is especially true after a couple of glasses of wine.

Cashiers at major supermarkets sit in chairs. This is smart.

People generally use their own grocery bags that they’ve bought or recycled rather than polluting the earth with a copious amount of plastic each time they go grocery shopping.  This is also smart.

From between 5 and 7 pm you can observe nearly the entire population of Nice carrying baguettes.

Order “un café” and you are ordering a shot of espresso.  I like it better this way.

Poop.  It’s everywhere.  Watch your step.

Watching disney movies in french has become my favorite method for improving my mastery of the french language.

My life has likely been shortened by one year from the amount of second hand smoke I’ve inhaled.  No regrets.

Copious amounts of fat and sugar.  Also, no regrets.

And these are all the things I’d like to say about Nice.  Stay tuned for another inconsistently blogged post.

Good Stuff (Nice, France)

wandering through the old town (la vieux nice)

dried fruit like you’ve never seen it before

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